# Ford Sync And Nexus 7 In-Dash Setup



## dcplaya

There are a few projects already on the forums so I thought I would throw mine up as well. Mine is a tad bit different though. My overall view is to completely replace my stock 2012 Ford Escape radio with my Nexus 7 but keep all Ford Sync options as well as steering wheel controls.

All photos of the project will be posted on my Google+ picture album.

Any comments or questions can be asked here or on Google+.

Bill of materials
Nexus 7 32GB

PAC MS-FDR1 Specs

PAC SWI-PS Specs

Joycon EXRSpecs

3.5mm Female Jack Specs

Belkin 7-port USB Hub Specs

Metra 99-5814HG Dash Kit Specs

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface Specs

Alpine MRX-V70 Amp Specs

4 new speakers for each door (Not yet purchased)

Kicker Solo Baric (Already had purchased)

Water proof USB and D-Sub connectors (explained below)

Various USB cables and L/R Audio

OBDII Device (Not purchased yet, prefer USB)

Small fan to keep everything cool in the summer

DC/DC Converter Regulator 12V/24V Stepdown to 5V, 15A Car Power Adapter

Software
CM 10.1 currently (Testing out Timur's Timur's USB ROM!

Google Apps for music and maps

Tasker for various automated tasks

Torque

The software list is short and sweet but might increase as time goes on.

The Nexus 7 will be permanently mounted behind my dash, in a custom mount with a aluminum or stainless steel box to hold all of the components. The Escape has a decent size middle console which I will be removing and cutting 2 small holes in to mount the waterproof USB and D-Sub connectors. The USBs will just be an extension of the hub to allow me to plug in USB drives. The D-Sub will be a custom connector so I can store the PAC MS-FDR1 Sync screen in there for easy access. Most of the things I use can be done via the SWC but there are a few functions that need that PAC screen.

I am currently in the process of finding materials for the box as well as figuring out a way to mount the tablet so it is secure. I also need to find some door speakers so I am open for recommendations.

The combo of PAC devices allows me to keep Sync as well as convert the steering wheel controls from medium speed CANbus to a resistive output which is what the JoyCon needs to function correctly. I have tested this in my Escape and know it works.

In the future, I would like to connect an HD radio, some guys are working on that as well. Maybe, do some CANbus stuff so I can display things on the built in display such as album and artist.

I have posted a small video of the Joycon in action with the Nexus 7 on my test "bench" (aka my desk)


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## Kookie_Monster

Nice... very ambitious project!! Keep us posted!!


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## jmcguire525

if you haven't seen it check out the way this guy mounted his http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2459432


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## dcplaya

jmcguire525 said:


> if you haven't seen it check out the way this guy mounted his http://forums.nasioc...d.php?t=2459432


Thats where I had my idea. I want to use aluminum so it can pull heat away from the tablet during the hotter months. I am not sure how he mounted the tablet to the plexiglass though


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## dcplaya

I ended up buying a double din car PC case, it is cheaper and has a fan as well. I will be modifying it to hold the tablet some how.


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## dcplaya

I have added some pictures of the USB and DSub holes I put in my center console. I had to remove the entire thing to get to it. I am currently laying out all the devices that will go inside of my case as well.


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## tt100

I'm interested in how you get along with this project. Keep us updated! THanks,


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## dcplaya

I have added some more pictures to my Google Plus album. This past weekend I got all 4 door speakers installed (That was a pain in the ass) and my amp temporarily mounted. I need to do a little more cable management before I call my amp finished and then mount my N7. I got some industrial velcro (plastic kind) and a small scrap sheet of plexiglass. I think there are mount points I can use to mount the plexiglass and then velcro my tablet to it. I will be drilling holes in the plexiglass for a fan/air flow for the hotter months.

I also need to check to make sure my power source outputs 5V, dont want to just blindly assume a cheaper power source will always output 5V. I also need to set up my Joycon for my car, it has been test resistances up to this point. I also have a fuse before my power source, a 5 amp fuse should be enough (at 12V) to let the power source output 10A at 5V. Ideally a 4.5A fuse is needed (10% higher than max) but I dont think they make those.

Later on down the road, I plan on installed ports to allow for easy disconnect of my amp without wires in my "hidden compartment". If anyone knows of ports that can handle 60 amps and large gauge wire, let me know so I can have my power modular too.


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## Kookie_Monster

Very nice (the pics)!! 

What's with the Microsoft logo on the fascia?


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## dcplaya

Kookie_Monster said:


> Very nice (the pics)!!
> 
> What's with the Microsoft logo on the fascia?


Haha, this year Ford has Sync with Microsoft (it actually is pretty nice). Since this came out (2011), Ford has ditched Microsoft and had a very crappy versions but I think Ford has finally hired good software developers because the 2013 software is awesome.


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## Kookie_Monster

dcplaya said:


> Haha, this year Ford has Sync with Microsoft (it actually is pretty nice). Since this came out (2011), Ford has ditched Microsoft and had a very crappy versions but I think Ford has finally hired good software developers because the 2013 software is awesome.


Ah... that explains it. I think an upgrade is in order. Maybe keep the Microsoft logo and stick something like this on top?


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## Kookie_Monster

Hey mate... I heard you already mounted everything on your Ford. Nice!!

Help me out with something, will ya? How happy are you with the UCA202? Is it really a good DAC? I know it's "only" 16Bit, but everything I read says it's good value for money.

Edit: ops... sorry for the double post! :|


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## dcplaya

I dont know why I am not getting notifications for replies to this post but

The UCA202 is fine for my ears. I do get a pop when the system turns off that I think a DAC with a grounding terminal may help reduce but I can also probably fix it with a timer delay. The sound is loads better than audio over bluetooth.


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## Kookie_Monster

dcplaya said:


> I dont know why I am not getting notifications for replies to this post but
> 
> The UCA202 is fine for my ears. I do get a pop when the system turns off that I think a DAC with a grounding terminal may help reduce but I can also probably fix it with a timer delay. The sound is loads better than audio over bluetooth.


Yay... a month later... xD
Most of the times I don't get my own topic notifications either. Must be some forum settings issue.

Thanks for the quick review. That's exactly what I was looking for.
I'll probably go with the Hifimediy Saber instead of the Behringer, mostly due to physical storage limitation.


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## dcplaya

Is the Saber smaller physically than the UCA202?

Also, I just found out about 15 minutes ago that whenever my headlights come on, I hear a nice buzz over my speakers. I need to find some sort of AC filter I guess.


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## Kookie_Monster

Yep... I don't remember the actual dimensions, but the saber is much smaller.

As for the buzz... you probably need one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=ground+loop&_sacat=0&_odkw=alternator+noise+supressor&_osacat=0&_from=R40


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## dcplaya

Yes, that is exactly what I need!! Thank you. One more little bug marked off the list.


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## Kookie_Monster

Hey mate...

How's the new DCDC-USB behaving? Does it solve all the issues we were talking about the other day?


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## dcplaya

Its solved the powering issue as well as the amp turn off thump. Im not sure if it solves the buzzing, I will have to check later today.


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## Kookie_Monster

dcplaya said:


> Its solved the powering issue as well as the amp turn off thump. Im not sure if it solves the buzzing, I will have to check later today.


Did it solve the accessorie to engine voltage drop?


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## dcplaya

Definitely solved that too. This PSU is much more robust that the cheaper one. And even if it didnt solve it, you could add a script to not send power to the N7/USB hub until input voltage is above a certain level for a certain period of time. (Say above 10V for at least 5 seconds).


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## Kookie_Monster

dcplaya said:


> Definitely solved that too. This PSU is much more robust that the cheaper one. And even if it didnt solve it, you could add a script to not send power to the N7/USB hub until input voltage is above a certain level for a certain period of time. (Say above 10V for at least 5 seconds).


Very nice.

I'll probably be able to start testing things in-car next weekend. I'm predicting a few issues with this PSU which might make me go and get the DCDC-USB. But I want to test everything out with my current setup first.


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