# Touchpad not turning on and home button flashing from left to right



## TitoinTampa (Oct 7, 2011)

Hello all,
I've searched Google and this forum for my exact problem but could not find any help. I had CM7 running fine on my Touchpad for months, I decided to upgrade to CM9 Alpha 2 last Thursday, by Friday the device went into stand-by and when I attempted to bring it back the screen was unresponsive. Unresponsive as in I could see my wallpaper and lock screen but it would not recognize my touch. I tried rebooting it via home+power and home+power+volumeup however it would not restart. After about an hour the screen went completely black (could not bring out of stand-by) and the home button is flashing left to right. I know the charger works because I plugged my HTC phone in and watched it charge from 90% to 95%. I'd also like to mention that before the screen went uresponsive it had about 75% power. Anyone know what I can try to get this thing working again? thanks so much


----------



## cobjones (Jun 21, 2011)

The flash is a notification for a dead battery. Plug it in with the OEM charger for 30 minutes or so and the power + home button press should turn it on.


----------



## TitoinTampa (Oct 7, 2011)

I had the OEM charger plugged in, same one I tried on my phone.. but apparently I did not have it plugged in long enough (5 hours) I then left it plugged in over night and it seems to be working, thanks.


----------



## Colchiro (Aug 26, 2011)

You need the stock 2 amp charger and the stock cable.

Your phone charger is .5 to 1 amp, (mine are .7 amp) not nearly enough to quickly charge a tablet that's powered on.


----------



## cobjones (Jun 21, 2011)

Odd, I had it happened and it only took about an hour to get enough of a charge to boot. Good it is fixed though


----------



## SimpleXu (Dec 9, 2011)

I also had the same problem, I used every method but can't save my TP. Then I changed a new one from the custom service


----------



## lippy lipkowski (Mar 17, 2013)

I know this is a really moldy post but that blink indicated a trickle charge state. Lithium Ion is a VERY volatile material. It comes close to or actually does begin to crystallize from the paste state in which it is fully operational in. If the crystal lattice sets up too completely, the cell is possibly shot. Trickle charging at like 20 or 30 milliamps will GENTLY begin to reverse the ionic reaction that has gone too far in it's discharged state and resulted in crystallization of the material.

Depending on the state of the discharge, Lithium Ion cells start to present close to zero ohms at a discharged state. The charging circuits are not designed to operate at zero ohms resistance hehehe. If you put too much current, like the full 2 AMP charging current, the material will most likely ignite, possibly detonate but most certianly damage the cell causing irreversable destructive crystallization of the Lithium Ion paste electrolyte even!

Take it to 4 or 5 amps and the cell will POSITIVELY ignite and most likely detonate! EESHK! And they let these friggin things on airplanes? Good Lord help us all. Anyways, when their voltage rises back above 3.2 or 3.3 volts or so, they begin to exhibit the proper resistance - impedence - ohms to the charge circuit and the charge current can then be ramped up safely.

But based on having run a computer store for 10 years all the spent batteries I have seen / experienced tells me that HP's implementation of cell charge / chemistry management through proper charging techniques makes for a VERY long cycle life on these devices. Using a 6AMP battery was a very good idea as well since the material is stressed less on the chemical / thermal level making for a MUCH higher cycle life.

As I was writing this it went from blinking left to right indicating the super duper low trickle charge probably around 20-30 milliamps and advanced to the Battery Icon with the red strip across the bottom indicating a higher charging current probably around 250 milliwatts to just a minute ago booting WebOS which probably occurs when the battery continues to show the correct resistance characteristics at 1000 milliwatts charge current for 5 minutes or so.

This is an unused 32 gigger I grabbed on eGhey.. Clearly unused. So it makes perfect sense that it would be fully discharged. Depending on the state of the discharge and the condition of the cell's electrolyte material, it will eventually come up to the right resistance characteristics in ohms and begin to properly charge. The time that takes to occur is obviously variable.

It may NEVER occur hehehehe. In which cause YOU AM BE BONED YEEEAHH BOYE333!! HAHAHAHA

8)

BUT, if you have had a partially successful experience with your Touchpad in this state, but the battery life inst what it used to be or you continue to experience unexpected zero battery events, try this:

Once you get back to Android, the JCsullins Cyanogen Mod has charge current selection. 100mah, 900mah and 2000 milliamper housrs are available on USB as charging current levels.

Find a really crappy charger and the Touchpad will go into 100 milliamp charge mode. Get it fully charged at that current level by leaving it off for a long while (100 mah times 60 hours meets the 6 amp battery capacity) and then leave the pad plugged in and beat it down to a few different levels. When I say BEAT IT DOWN I mean BEAT IT DOWN hehehe.

I mean like over clock it to 1800 mhz so you still have a modicum of stability and use CM10.1 3 kern 20140125 jcsullins and then run mad Netflix and Flash movies (jcsullins 10.1 3Kern test 20140125 does Netflix right off the play store and Flash works nicely especially in Firefox Beta) Graphics benchmarks and blah. All over clocked. You won't damage the tablet at 1800 mhz. Expect some reboots. Don't be a pussy. The tablet will get warm. You WANT it to get warm to accomplish the battery reformation.

Don't go too low on the first beating. Only take it down to about 80 percent. Do that twice and let it come back up at 100 mah. Then increase drain from beating to 60 percent and do this 4 times. Then see if 40 works without your battery boinking to zero prematurely. If 40 doesn't work repeat the procedure starting again with a couple of high drain beatings to 80 percent and so one.

You SHOULD eventually get the battery capacity back hopefully decrystallizing ALL of the electrolyte material back to paste. If you succeed you should have most of the original battery capacity back. The person's pad I did this on hasn't had trouble with it any further. He lives on the thing so he has thousands of cycles on his battery. He says it works with better capacity than it ever did, which is certainly a possible outcome in my opinion!

As I wrote, this tablet is brand spankin new old stock. So I am hoping that three years of non use has not led to partial crystallization of this new pad's cell. Based on it coming off the blinking home button super duper low trickle charge state in about 30 minutes I think bodes well that the state of discharge was slight. Based on reading reports of 8+ hours and of some never coming out of that blink, I am considering myself lucky.

I know this is a moldy old thread, but i think some are going to find it useful as the batteries age and people score still available new old stock. MAN I WISH HP WOULD MAKE ONE WITH ONE OF THESE NEWER ASIC'S. For that matter they could hire JC Sullins to schwing up 4.4.4 with a WebOS HP twist and re-release the device. What a nice platform it is which of course, is why we all love them so much! Hopefully this was a good read anyways hehehehe.

Oh yes one more thing. I have decided to leave the WebOS start screen requesting language up while this is charging. That allows me to wuss out the current by having about 1000 of the 2000mah charge current available on the 2 Amp stock charger. Probably a good idea to hit the cell lighter on the initial charges to allow for a slower decrystallization of any of the electrolyte material that may have crystallized.

I AM A NERD.......BUSTED!!!!!

8)


----------

